A Place That Won't
Let You Leave
The Caribbean Sea in front. A still lagoon behind. And a name that means, in Wayuú: to fly with the wind.
Awatawaa sits on a narrow strip of land between two worlds: the Caribbean Sea in front, the Ciénaga de Mababita lagoon behind. Two entirely different natural spaces, both reachable directly from your terrace. On one side: waves, pelicans in formation, open horizon. On the other: still, fish-rich water where flamingos, herons and roseate spoonbills wade close enough to make out the colour of their feathers. The lodge itself: twelve teak-wood cabins, built with care, right on the beach — six family cabins (for three to six people) and six double cabins, one of them with its own jacuzzi.
You wake up to birdsong. Not as background noise — as a concert. The lagoon begins just behind the cabins, and walking there requires no map and no guide. Early morning is when the light is finest and the birds most active. Flamingos, ibises, pelicans. Then back to the beach: swimming, lying still, reading. No programme, no entertainment. Many guests extend their stay spontaneously — not because there is more to see, but because they have surrendered to the rhythm of the place and do not want to let go.
“The sound of the ocean is breathtaking — it becomes part of you, part of your rhythm, your breathing, your soul. It varies depending on wind, tides, weather, but it is always there, strong and persistent.”Paula, Founder of Awatawaa
© Paula Awatawaa Lodge
In the evening, the fish arrives directly from the fishermen you have watched all day from the shore. What Yoleida — the lodge’s cook — does with it is what guests still write about weeks later: fresh, Colombian, surprisingly good. Better, many say, than in far more expensive restaurants in the region. Dinner by candlelight. Falling asleep to the sound of the sea. Neither needs explaining.
Behind all of this is Paula — founder, manager, host with genuine heart. She speaks German, English and Spanish and is always available. Her team comes from the surrounding community and from families she knows personally — their children, their worries, their birthdays. She trains, pays fairly, buys from local fishermen and farmers. It is wonderful to see how something like this can work on a community level.
“I love to connect everything around me — to a place where its energy seems to naturally reconnect everyone who comes with themselves, with their loved ones, with nature, with genuine people.”Paula, Founder of Awatawaa
The cabins suit couples as much as families. The couples’ cabins are especially striking: a private jacuzzi on the terrace, sea view, candlelight. A genuine moment of luxury — set within the wildest nature. Some evenings there is a bonfire on the beach, and occasionally a music group comes from the neighbouring village. It is a real way to learn about the local culture and the people who live here — something truly special.
For those who want more movement, it is close at hand. Right outside the door: river tubing on the Río Jerez in Dibulla — and with it, a first encounter with the region's cultural diversity, where Wayuú, Wiwa, Kogui and Arhuaco communities live side by side. A little further, about an hour or so away: the Río Don Diego, also known for jungle river tubing, with howler monkeys along the banks. Along the way lies Taironaka: an archaeological site of the Tayrona people, where Kogui community members still live today. The landscape itself shifts within a short distance: mangrove forests, several species of cactus, and close by, the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta with its towering old trees. The local fishing community has plenty to show too — from boat to market. For those who want to go the full distance: the same magazine carries a dedicated article on the Lost City Trek with Wiwa Tours. The natural order: the trek first, then the sea.
© Paula Awatawaa Lodge
© Paula Awatawaa Lodge
For travellers who want to immerse themselves in Colombian culture — and who want both luxury and closeness: a jacuzzi with a sea view and a dinner that surprises, alongside genuine proximity to the people who work and live here, to the families of the village, to the wildlife of the lagoon. For anyone who wants a few unhurried days on the beach and something truly rare in Colombia.
Getting There
Nearest airport: Riohacha, only about 1 hour away. Santa Marta is roughly 2.5 hours. A jeep is no longer necessary — almost any car can make it, even in the rain.
Best Time to Visit
December to April: dry. April/May: some rain. June to September: dry again. October/November: rainy season. The sea stays calm and beautiful year-round — and the rainy season varies from year to year, usually short showers in the evening or at night.
Accommodation
12 teak-wood cabins, all with direct beach access and sea views — 6 family cabins (3–4 or 4–6 people) and 6 double cabins, one of them with a private jacuzzi on the terrace. Solar power, candlelight in the evenings. Flamingo Suite: larger deck, worth the upgrade according to guests.
Food
Full board recommended — the food is a central part of the experience. Fresh fish daily from local fishermen. Vegetarian options available.
Booking & Contact
www.awatawaa.com
Instagram: @awatawaaecolodge
Paula speaks German, English and Spanish.
Morning walk along the Ciénaga de Mababita (independent — flamingos, herons, ibises, pelicans) · Swimming · Stand-up paddling & surfing · Kayaking · Yoga · Fishing
Right near the lodge. Drift through the river landscape, with an early glimpse into the region's cultural diversity — Wayuú, Wiwa, Kogui and Arhuaco communities live here in close proximity to one another.
About an hour or a little more away. Drift through the jungle, watch howler monkeys, land on a deserted Caribbean beach. Along the way: Taironaka, a Tayrona archaeological site with a living Kogui community.
By canoe through the flamingo sanctuary near Camarones, guided by Wayuú guides. Can be booked directly with the lodge — Awatawaa organises this reliably, by boat or by car. For excursions further afield, into the Alta Guajira, Tayrona or Montes de Oca, Wiwa Tours is a good addition.
→ wiwatour.com
4 days through the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta with indigenous Wiwa guides. Ideal as a prelude or follow-up to Awatawaa. Full story in the dedicated article in this issue.
→ wiwatour.com
I have not been there. But Paula’s words moved me — genuinely moved me. She describes this place with so much soul. Not just the nature, not just the setting between sea and lagoon. The people. She knows every family member of every team member by name. That is not management — that is humanity. And it is exactly what guests describe, again and again: a warmth you cannot order. Paula has built something extraordinary with simple means — a place you simply cannot find like this anywhere else.